One Month Itinerary For Ukraine
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Backpacking Guide To Ukraine
Ukraine, an Eastern European country, is commonly overlooked for tourism by its Western European vacation hotspots and well, by travelers not knowing much about the country or its location. Ukraine is known as the biggest country in Europe unless you want to include transcontinental Russia which is the biggest country in the world! But aside from its size, culture, landscape, architecture, people, and of course, the cuisine will make it unlike any other country you’ve ever visited.
Nestled between Russia, Romania, Moldova, Poland, Hungary, Belarus, and Slovakia, you’ll find it very easy getting around by land as long as you’re holding a passport that allows you to travel freely through the European Union at least.
Is Ukraine worth visiting?
The cost of living in Ukraine offers amazing pastimes at any point of the year, and for all budgets. You can go and try all kinds of adventurous things to do in Ukraine in the remote Carpathian Mountains, enjoy city life in Ukraine’s capital city, discover a medieval cultural heritage in the West, or find out more about Soviet times in the East. You can marvel at the beauty of Lviv’s Old Town, party in Odessa’s best beaches, and even visit the abandoned Chernobyl zone.
Suggested budget to cover the cost of living in Ukraine
As of writing this, the current conversion is 28UAH to $1USD.
Accommodation - 420UAH ($15USD) Ukraine can easily go from one of the cheapest places to find a hostel in the world to also be as expensive as any Western European country in the world. It depends on what you’re comfortable spending and how much you value your space. Also, do you know the differences in the type of accommodation that may be available to you?
Food - 300UAH This would be your standard 100UAH per meal and eating each meal out. If you choose to shop from a grocery store or skip breakfast you can get by for cheaper ($10USD)
Activities/Drinks - 140UAH We put these together as some days you’ll want to explore on your own or you won’t want to pay for an activity at all. ($5USD)
Coins Really do add up
We would suggest that you set aside 28000UAH ($1000 USD) to comfortably maneuver around the country for a whole month. On average you should be spending around $30USD, note that these are all estimates and can vary from the biggest cities in Ukraine to villages and from person to person basis. This Ukraine travel blog is meant to only guide you to have an idea of what to expect!
How to save money in Ukraine
Eat local cheap eats
It’s one of the easiest money-saving things that you can possibly do. Like all towns and cities in Ukraine you visit, you’ll be able to find a place with traditional borscht (beet soup) for 35UAH or varenyky for 50UAH.
If you’re staying in a place with a kitchen then you’ve already won! Groceries in Ukraine are beyond affordable as long as you stay away from all of the western delicacies like steaks, fish, and shrimp. You can get a week full of produce for the price of 1 day worth in the US.
Use the CouchSurfing app
If you’ve never used it before, it’s an app that allows you to stay on someone’s couch/guest room for free. In exchange, you can either cook them something traditional from your country and/or share stories of travels and hang out together.
We’ve used this many times not just for staying over at people’s houses but also as a meetup app to meet like-minded travelers.
Use google to self guide your own tours
This is a huge one as well! Tours, especially ones that’ll be guided in English are going to be much pricier than the ones done in the Ukrainian language. It’s best to find the places you’ll like to visit ahead of time and do some research on which tours/sites are worth paying for the guided tour.
Inna and I get bored really easily when it comes to listening to someone stand in one spot and tell us about all those Ukraine history facts for 40 minutes at a time. Plan your routes (as you’ll see below)
Plan your routes (as you’ll see below)
If you fail to plan your Ukraine travel itinerary, then you’re planning to fail! Not mapping out the direction you want to go in ahead of time will do two things to you. First, it’ll waste your time. Second, it’ll cost you a lot more money to bounce around!
Western Ukraine vs Eastern Ukraine – it’s better to start somewhere and loop around. If you’re unsure of places it’s best to do your research or ask someone who already knows. No such thing as a stupid question.
Drink less alcohol
Yes, alcohol in Ukraine compared to Western European countries is extremely cheap! Average beers at the market are about 25UAH and at a restaurant about 45 UAH.
But when you head out with a group of backpackers for a night of drinking and 6 beers, you’re looking at 300UAH a night. Do that 12 times in your trip and you’re looking at 3600UAH, roughly $130 you probably didn’t put into your budget ahead of time...Rookie Mistake. We all make it!
How to travel around Ukraine
Train
The most efficient way of transportation to travel to all the largest cities in Ukraine. Whether it’s just a 4-hour train ride you can sit comfortably on and take in the views outside the window, or you’re taking a 12-hour sleeper train, you’ll find that they’re all suitable options. Yes, in the summer it can get very hot and stuffy on the second class trains, but they’re cheap!
Use the official website of Ukrzaliznytsia for booking.
Bus
Should be the first means of transportation you look at when it comes to getting somewhere off the beaten track in Ukraine. Take a bus as well if you don’t have to travel too far as they tend to be very stuffy and/or extremely bumpy!
Use Busfor to check the bus schedule, the tickets can be purchased at local bus stations.
Flights
The fastest and most comfortable type of transportation of course, but also not really necessary or suitable unless you’re trying to go from Kharkiv to Odessa, or Odessa to Lviv.
Use Windrose for local flights.
Blablacar
We found this to be the most affordable option several times during our latest road trip. Bla Bla Car, a ride-sharing app, which pairs a driver headed to the same destination as you are with a passenger or multiple passengers.
Some of the bus rides we were looking at paying 250UAH each and instead found a Bla Bla Car for 200UAH total, saved us 2 hours of time on the road, and dropped us off near our hotel!
How to Say Common Ukrainian/Russian Phrases
Russian is the most common language in Eastern Ukraine although in the south-west region of the country locals speak Ukrainian. 50/50 of the capital Kyiv speaks Ukrainian and Russian.
English - Ukrainian | Russian
Hello - Pryvit (Ukrainian) | Privet (Russian)
Goodbye - Do pobachennya (Ukrainian) | Do svidaniya (Russian)
Goodbye (informal) - Buvaj (Ukrainian) | Paka (Russian)
Please - Bud’ laska (Ukrainian) | Pazhaluista (Russian)
Thank you - Dyakuyu (Ukrainian) | Spasiba (Russian)
How are you? - Yak spravy? (Ukrainian) | Kak dyela? (Russian)
Do you speak English? - Vy hororyte po-angliski? (Ukrainian) | Vy gavarite po-angliski? (Russian)
I don’t understand - Ya ne rozumiju (Ukrainian) | Ya nye panimaju (Russian)
What is your name? - Yak vas zvut’? (Ukrainian) | Kak vas zovut? (Russian)
My name is - Mene zvut’ [name] (Ukrainian) | Menya zovut [name] (Russian)
The best time to visit Ukraine
The best time of year we would recommend for you would be to visit during the months of May - September as you’ll find the weather to be perfect. During the off months, you can experience very cold temperatures, especially at night, or at the very least an overcast sky.
If you’re looking to go snowboarding or skiing, however, you can visit in November and December for some wonderful slopes in the Carpathian Mountains in southwestern Ukraine.
Packing for your Ukraine trip
This will depend totally on what time of year you plan to visit Ukraine! Visiting during the timeframe we listed above, you should pack your normal spring/summer attire. The day can get hot like anywhere, but in the mountains, at night it can get a bit chilly, so packing a long sleeve would be advisable.
In the winter month you should definitely bring some heavy clothing, but don’t overpack, you can buy some nice winter clothes in Ukraine if necessary.
Is Ukraine a safe country?
Easily the number 1 question we’re always asked when it pertains to travel out here in Ukraine. YES! It’s very safe to travel around the country, just be wary as you should in any country in the world. Ukrainian people are very friendly even though they don’t just smile because you made eye contact with them as we do in the USA.
Also, don’t be afraid because you don’t speak Ukrainian or Russian, as lots of places in the cities have English menus or things are written in English. Do they speak English in Ukraine? Not as much as in Western Europe and not so much in villages.
When you’re in the smaller towns or you’re in the middle of nowhere you’ll have to go about it in a different manner, but don’t hesitate to try to ask for something as Ukrainian people will try to help you even if they don’t understand what you’re saying. Always have several handy travel apps downloaded ahead of your trip in case you run into any sort of miscommunication.
Getting to Ukraine
The easiest and most efficient way to get into the country is to fly into Boryspil airport in Kyiv. This way you’re dealing with the proper immigration people when you’re getting stamped in and if you don’t speak the language you’ll have someone readily available to help you.
If you’re coming from the United States, European Union, Australia, or Canada, then you don’t need a visa. Just remember you can only visit Ukraine for a 90 day period out of 180 days.
Do you need a visa for Ukraine?
If you’re coming from the United States, European Union, Australia, or Canada, then you don’t need a visa. Just remember you can only visit Ukraine for a 90 day period out of 180 days.
In the picture on the left, you’'ll see all the countries listed that can apply directly online for an E-Visa which will take about 9 days to process and will only grant you access to one month in Ukraine.
For more information on this subject visit the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Ukraine.
One month itinerary in Ukraine: Map
1-month route visiting cities clockwise
Kyiv -> Kharkiv -> Kherson -> Odessa -> Vinnytsia -> Kamianets-Podilsky -> Chernivtsi -> Ivano-Frankivsk -> Berehove-> Uzhhorod -> Lviv -> Kyiv
1-month route visiting cities counterclockwise
Kyiv -> Lviv -> Uzhhorod -> Berehove -> Ivano-Frankivsk -> Chernivtsi -> Kamianets-Podilsky -> Vinnytsia -> Odessa -> Kherson -> Kharkiv -> Kyiv
Cities in Ukraine to include in your itinerary
Kyiv - the capital city of Ukraine
By far the most recognizable name on the list, or maybe even the only one you know. Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, and the perfect starting point for you to get your bearings in Eastern Europe without the culture shock or language barrier!
Here, you’ll need at least 3-4 days to see most of the historical landmarks in the city, 5 days if you plan on going to visit Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.
From walking through Independence Square, visiting the Motherland Monument, seeing cathedral after cathedral, getting your new apparel on one of the shopping streets, and eating some of the best Eastern European cuisine you’ve ever had, you’ll see, Kyiv has it all!
Getting from Kyiv to Kharkiv - Trains depart all day but tend to be cheaper earlier and later in the day and with more vacancies. We’d recommend you book this ahead of time so you're guaranteed a seat and you get to take in the views from a window seat.
Note, some trains are equipped with wifi and others are not, it’s hit or miss! The price is 350UAH per person for a second class Intercity train.
Kharkiv - the first capital of Ukraine and the heart of Sloboda region
What does the heart of Sloboda Ukraine - Kharkiv - have to offer for tourists? It is the second city after the capital in terms of population in Ukraine and the second largest city, respectively. During Soviet times, Kharkiv served as the capital of Ukraine for 15 years.
Kharkiv is a city of industry and science where old churches and monumental concrete buildings peacefully coexist together. The city is pragmatic and romantic at the same time - this is how we at Executive Thrillseeker view the modern-day Kharkiv.
Getting from Kharkiv to Kherson - It was a bit of pain as it’ll take you a full day to get from Kharkiv down to Odessa then transfer from Odessa to Kherson. This is what brought us to take a stopover in Kryvyi Rih and have a break in our long ride. The train leaves Kharkiv at 20:30 and arrives in Kryvyi Rih around 8 a.m.
Kryvyi Rih - the industrial hub of Ukraine
What we consider to be a stopover city and a place that you can visit where you’ll see a normal pace of life off the beaten track in Ukraine. We had a few good meals here and got to experience Independence day parades on the main streets.
We will say they really do know how to brew some really good coffee out this way, it caught us by surprise! Do be sure to ride the old fashioned soviet style trams that’ll only cost you 2.5UAH and experience daily life in Ukraine.
Getting from Kryvyi Rih to Kherson - As stated above we chose to take a one-night stopover in Kryvyi Rih, so you’ll have to take the train in the morning to Kherson which should take roughly 4 hours. Alternatively, you can take a bus for around the same price and time.
Kherson - home to some of the most beautiful nature in Ukraine
One of the biggest shocks to us on this trip if we’re to be honest, which we are! We didn’t expect to love this city as much as we did. From the moment we stepped off the train to the main streets of the city we were in love with its charm. It has a feel of a small town in a well-populated city with clean streets, good cafes, amazing food, and a variety of old/new culture that does not go unnoticed.
It has recently become a hotspot for unusual activities to do in Ukraine. We’d recommend you spend 3 days out here as you’ll want to see Oleshky Sands (Europe’s largest desert), pink lakes, and Askania-Nova natural reserve!
It’s best if you try to find a tour that takes you to all 3 of these things or you rent a car, as the lakes and reserve are several hours away and it’ll take multiple days to do if you choose to go by public transit. Surprisingly, it has a pretty decent nightlife.
If you choose to get to the Oleshky Sands by yourself, as we did, be ready for about an hour and a half walk in both directions. Here, you’ll travel through local villages, past a military base, and walk through several farms before you reach your destination. As pictured above!
Getting from Kherson to Odessa - If you take the early morning train you’ll make it in perfect time to have a full day in Odessa, to begin with! Also as an alternative, you can try to take a bus or BlaBlaCar for around the same price.
Odessa - the pearl of the Black Sea
A beautiful port city located on the Black Sea in southern Ukraine, with an abundance of foreign architecture and culture. Odessa is one of the most visited vacation destinations among most nationals and people frequenting Ukraine.
A bit pricier than other places you’ll visit in the country, but well worth it when planned out properly! We spent a total of 5 nights in two different parts of the city and would 100% go back and do it all over again.
The street we loved the most Derybasivska St. will wow you during the day and at night with its charm during the day and its liveliness during the night. View the history of the city walking through Tarasa Shevchenka Park, getting your cardio in walking up the Potemkin Stairs, rent an hour on a yacht with some friends, or simply snag a table on the beach with some fresh Black Sea seafood and locally brewed beer!
Getting from Odessa to Kamianets-Podilskyi - While searching for a train or direct route, we found it would take 13 hours and get us into town in the middle of the night. So we opted for a stopover in Vinnytsia, breaking our trip into an 8-hour ride and a 5-hour ride.
Vinnytsia – a city to experience daily life in Ukraine
Another city we would consider a stopover city. Here you again get to experience a normal place where you see the hustle and bustle of a normal work life and normal social skills of Ukrainian people. We lucked out and got an affordable and close to city center accommodation that allowed us to do everything on foot and in a loop. The European Square to us is the most photogenic place in all of Vinnytsia to take some nice pictures and walk around. We did also find “Trofey” to be one of the most authentic and well-designed restaurants in all of Ukraine!
Kamianets-Podilskyi – the historical cradle of Ukraine
If you’re to close your eyes and imagine what a fairytale castle would look like and then open them again, you’d almost immediately be transformed into this one of a kind town in the mountains of Ukraine. It’s clearly one of the most charming places to see in Ukraine!
If you do two days in Kamianets then you’ll be doing it the proper way as we were told ahead of time. This being because you’ll be able to take a day trip to Bakota, Ukraine which is home to an ancient cave monastery that was in service from the 12th-14th century!
You can see in the picture the Dniester river, which the cave monastery lies near, as it was strategically positioned there for its resources.
Getting from Kamianets to Chernivtsi - One of the trickier tasks for us as we had several goals we wanted to accomplish. You can opt to take a bus from Kamianets directly to Chernivtsi or you can take a bus from Kamianets to Khotyn to see the castle and from there take a taxi to a bus all the way to Chernivtsi.
Note, we waited outside the bus station for a couple minutes and were about to wait several hours for a bus when we were approached by a taxi. He offered to take us and two others to Chernivtsi for 75UAH each, this turned out to be cheaper and faster for all of us and even more direct!
Khotyn - one of the hidden gems in Ukraine
One of the off beaten path adventures in Ukraine, but 100% worth it if you’ve got the time in your schedule! Khotyn is one of the oldest towns in the country and back in the day it was a strategically important spot on the crossroads.
The main objective of the visit is the Khotyn Fortress, which is one of the Seven Wonders of Ukraine. The original fortress was built in the 10th century and was modified until it received the current look in the 14th century. Don’t miss the chance to take pictures on the hills surrounding the fortress.
Chernivtsi and it’s magical-looking University
Home to one of the most sought after photogenic and Hogwarts-looking universities in Ukraine. With its history dating back to the Austrian-Hungarian empire in the late 1800’s and it’s baroque-style architecture, Chernivtsi is a perfect little town for a Ukraine vacation.
For us, 2 days was enough for Chernivtsi, as seeing the University is the highlight and walking around to view the churches and eat at the top-rated restaurants, it seemed to be enough!
Getting from Chernivtsi to Ivano Frankivsk - You can opt to get there by train, bus, or you can choose to use the bla bla car app which we did.
Ivano-Frankivsk – the gate to the Carpathians
Again to be honest, this was our biggest let down of our trip! Yes architecturally it was beautiful, but it lacked a sense of identity when it came to what they’re trying to do touristically.
The sites were pretty but nothing to die for, foods weren’t anything special, and the coffees were all mediocre after trying 9 different shops over 3 days.
We did however enjoy our time walking around the lake just outside the city center and we did have a very nice apartment rental.
Getting from Ivano Frankivsk to Berehove - By bus it’s gonna be one of the bumpiest and roughest rides you’ll come across if you choose to go this route!
However, driving through the Carpathian Mountains just may be one of the most breathtaking things you do on this trip. All in all it costs...and the ride takes 8 ½ hours. There are faster and easier routes however if you wish to explore them while backpacking Ukraine.
Berehove - thermal pools and wine cellars
At this point in our trip we were ready for some real off the beaten path small towns in Ukraine and local relaxation time. Berehove is the home of Ukraine’s most luxurious and lavish thermal bath pools and resorts.
Also, after the food situation in Ivano Frankivsk, we were rewarded heavily by the Hungarian/Ukrainian fusions and culture that were readily available in Berehove. If we could give you one place to eat at it’d have to be “Zolota Pava” a former casino from a hundred years ago turned into a restaurant and banquet facility! Here you’ll find some of the best places to eat in this town with a nice view nestled next to the bridge and a stream with lots of ducks.
When in Berehove be sure to check out one of the few wine tours in town as they’re on the cheaper side. The only problem is they’re going to be in the Ukrainian language unless you go to one with a guided tour!
Getting from Berehove to Uzhhorod - The easiest of transportations you’ll have on this entire route! Opt for the 1 ½ hour bus 60UAH per person.
Uzhhorod – one of the friendliest cities in Ukraine
While we found that Uzhorod didn’t really have much to do on the touristic side, we did find there to be lovely walks along the river on both sides. As well as a nice walk through the park, good food, good coffee, and some beautiful 19th-century architecture and historical places to visit in Ukraine.
Once in the city center, you’re able to walk everywhere and will have no need for public transport.
Getting from Uzhhorod to Lviv - You have the easy options of taking a bus or train, but we chose to take another bla bla car as it was 220UAH each to take a car through the Carpathians and have the comfort. It took roughly 4 hours but was completely and utterly worth it. Not to mention, one of the cheapest routes available!
Lviv - the best-preserved and maintained Old Town
This had to be our favorite excursion throughout this entire month in Ukraine! We originally had set aside 3 nights to spend here, but ended up spending 5 nights in two different areas. This charming city with Western Ukrainian culture and hospitality made it a highlight of our backpacking Ukraine travel itinerary.
Every day and every night jam-packed with a different excursion up and down the beautiful cobblestone streets. With some of the best food in Ukraine, you’re bound to find a restaurant suitable for you and your group.
Be sure to check out the Lviv Brewery for a tour and tasting, walk to the top of High Castle for a birds-eye view of the city, and finish your night with a fun and mysterious dinner at “The Most Expensive Restaurant in Galicia”.
Getting from Lviv to Kyiv - The train takes 9 hours and luckily for us, it left the station just after 11 pm at night! Be sure to pack some snacks and water as nothing will be available on board this train. Also, pack earplugs and an eye mask if you’d like to get a decent night's sleep and wake up refreshed first thing in the morning in Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine.
Backpacking Ukraine for a month may or may not be enough time for you, but we do know it’s the perfect amount of time for you to be able to take in the sites and culture.
